Clos Vougeot vertical 2005-1985

By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com 

23 March 2016

What better place to taste Clos Vougeot than at Clos Vougeot?

Part of the fantastic week here at the Grand Jours de Bourgogne included a media invite for a vertical of this famous appellation, from a variety of estates stretching from 2005 to 1985.

A few months ago, I enjoyed a horizontal of 2013 Clos Vougeot, thanks to Fine+Rare Wine in London. Now, time for a vertical. Wines in bold, I liked in particular. When red and bold, even more. When underlined, too, a kind of nirvana.

A lovely pair of 2005s

• 2005 Gros Frère et Sœur Clos Vougeot Musigni – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Gorgeous nose, spicy, cinnamon, juicy cherry, tannins are quite present. The wine is far from ready. Powerful tannins – if of excellent quality – mark the finish. Still, a very seductive wine. Superb. (94+ pts.)

• 2005 Domaine Daniel Rion et Fils Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Served from a magnum. Seems to have more acidity than the Gros Frere & Soeur, with somewhat higher toned aspects. More red fruit as compared to the darker fruit of the Gros Frere & Soeur. The finish is a bit tight and not quite as ample. (92 pts.)

A very weak 2004, two fine showings from 2003

• 2004 Gérard Raphet Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Somewhat green on the nose. Somewhat thin, but not lean. I suppose if you have steak with this, just the ticket, but not really singing.

• 2003 Bouchard Père et Fils Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Roasted fruit aspects on the nose and palate. Color, from a regular bottle, not as evolved as the Gérard Raphet 2004 Clos Vougeot, from magnum… Says much about 2004, in this case. Sweet red fruit on the palate. Succulent. There is juice, but rather meaty, tertiary. A lovely delivery overall, as my pal, the Norwegian wine expert, Christer Byklum said: “extremely smooth, beautiful balance.” Yup, and with a long finish. (93 pts.)

• 2003 Domaine Michel Gros Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Served from magnum. Spice cake. Baked fruit, but smooth – if not quite as appealing as the Bouchard, as the tannins are just a touch hard, by comparison. Still, would match a rich steak well. (90 pts.)

My general preference of 2002 over 2001 or 2000 confirmed here

• 2002 Maison Albert Bichot Clos Vougeot Domaine du Clos Frantin – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Cool blueberry combines with roasted fruit on the nose. Lovely. Freshness on the attack with an ample mid palate, even if the finish is not as complete as one would have hoped from the start. Nicely structured. Still, it could be that the tannins are not yet really resolved. (92 pts.)

 

• 2002 Domaine Château De La Tour Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Lovely stewed cherry aspect. There is a certain tightness to the tannin but overall, a ripe and spicy delivery, with nuance and layers of flavor. Excellent power. I am impressed. Bravo! Compared to the Bichot, tasted just before, the de la Tour seems to convey more power. (94 pts.)

• 2001 Faiveley Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Spicy nose, a touch austere after the 2002s, which I prefer. I like the red cherry skin aspect however, even if the finish is somewhat tight and even slightly sour. (88 pts.)

• 2000 Domaine Georges Mugneret/Mugneret-Gibourg Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Lovely spicy nose. Clafoutis like fruit, cake and cherry. The palate is again a bit tight and unresolved as with the Faiveley, with a slightly mouth puckering aspect. Try now, if you must, but with a steak. (88 pts.)

The best flight, with a superlative 1996, plus excellent wines from 1990 and 1985

• 1999 Domaine Armelle et Bernard Rion Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Fresh nose. Bright red fruit. Blueberry fruit, really appealing if not sexy seductive. More intellectual – and that carries weight, too. The attack is brisk with foreboding tannin yet balanced by nice sap. The finish is just a bit too short for what one would expect from the opening and mid game. Still, delicious. (91 pts.)

• 1996 J. Confuron-Cotetidot Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Well, wow! Real perfume here, incense. Gorgeous bound tannins, but of superb quality. Juicy and sappy. Excellent delivery, smooth. So far the very best of all. 13% alcohol. Perhaps the finish is a bit – still – tightly wound but the quality of the tannin augurs well for future cellaring, just great stuff! (96 pts.)

• 1990 Joseph Drouhin Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Fresh sap filled, rich and succulent, almost like a rich espresso aspect, of very high quality coffee bean, if not quite as nuanced perhaps or complex as the above… but still, Christer loved this, as do I. Really, if you have this, drink it now and enjoy with a wide variety of food choices, from Chateaubriand to roast lamb. (93 pts.)

• 1985 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
  Almost a caramel sweetness to the wine, on the nose, succulent. Certainly nose of baked fruit, too, with, again, baked plum on the palate. Tannins are just a bit – still – tight believe it or not, on the finish, meaning that you can rest assured that the wine has more time to age blissfully in your cellar. But perfect to open now, with a meat based dish to be sure. (93 pts.)