Northern Médoc: Sweet spots confirmed in 2016

A modern era 1986?

Great stuff in Saint Julien, Pauillac and Saint Estèphe ?

(Bordeaux 2016 from bottle, part 2)

11 November 2018

By Panos Kakaviatos for 

Just as we saw how well Pomerol excelled in 2016, another area of consumer interest, also in terms of quality across all price points, is the northern Médoc. And not only that, but many of the wines as tasted from bottle fulfilled their promise from barrel as you can consult my “sweet spot” barrel tasting notes:

Pauillac and Saint Julien: Sweet Spots

While I liked wines from the southern Médoc, the most interesting Left Bankers came from the north; at least at this very early stage from bottle. And this high quality applies also, if to a lesser extent, to cru bourgeois level wines, as I tasted some at the Grand Cercle.

Furthermore, for upscale wines, many of which I tasted blind as organized by the UGCB during my visit to Bordeaux last month, there is no need to spend tons of cash on first growths to get aristocratic quality.

Indeed, so called Super Seconds and other “over performing” wines not officially recognized as top tier, did very well in 2016, so much so that for example I would score, say, Château Léoville Poyferré just as high, if not higher, than Château Margaux in 2016.

Modern era 1986?

Philippe Dhalluin of Château Mouton Rothschild may have said it best when comparing the first growth to a “modern era 1986” because there of high tannins and highish acidities: I would think that many 2016s will close down for a period before starting to have a proper drinking window, say, 10 years down the line in your cellar. Now, 10 years is not that much compared to 1986, as some of those are kind of closed still in 2018!

Certainly Léoville Las Cases earns a 100 point score or somewhere close to that. Tasting it from bottle with Jane Anson, we agreed that the 2016 LLC is nothing short of superlative.

From Saint Julien to Saint Estèphe, the northern Médoc features many fine wines and even stars, from humbly priced wines like Château Château Petit Bocq to the mighty Château Montrose, by way of a downright excellent (and slightly more “mid- to high-priced”) Château Calon Ségur.

Unlike in Pomerol, we tasted many of these wines blind (with notable exceptions of Château Pontet Canet, Château Léoville Las Cases, Château Ducru Beaucaillou and the first growths that we were able to taste).It is a pity that such truly great wines do not allow themselves to be compared blind with their neighbors.

Let me just go to a quick “box score” of my overall northern Médoc favorites in terms of “price has no meaning” favorites to “price/quality ratio favorites”, as follows:

Six northern Médocs I really liked, where price has less meaning (we did not taste Château Latour from bottle) 

  1. Château Léoville Las Cases (100)
  2. Château Mouton Rothschild (100)
  3. Château Pontet Canet (98+)
  4. Château Léoville Poyferre (98)
  5. Château Ducru Beaucaillou (98)
  6. Château Lynch Bages (97+)

Six northern Médocs with (very) appealing price/quality ratios at varying price points 

  1. Château Grand Puy Lacoste (96+)
  2. Château Gruaud Larose (96)
  3. Château Calon Ségur (95+)
  4. Château Lafon Rochet (93+)
  5. Château Potensac (92)
  6. Château Fonbadet (92)

Special mention to Château Croizet Bages for a particularly fine performance from bottle!

Tasting Notes: As usual, if I liked in particular, in bold. If red and bold, even more. And if underlined, too? A kind of wine nirvana. Asterisks* mean a particularly good price/quality ratio.

Visiting Château Léoville Las Cases

Well, let’s just start with one of the best wines of the 2016 vintage, hands down. Of course this estate is part of the Domaines Delon, so we tasted some others, too, among which counts very possibly the best price/quality ratio for the Médoc, so here goes.

Château Potensac* – Lovely nose, with juicy fruit, red and black. There is more than your usual elegance from this estate, as the winemaking has gotten more fine tuned. Blending 44% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot, this wine clocks in at 13.8% alcohol, with an IPT of 75 and a pH of 3.48.  Bottled in April, it is a bit closed now, but that is normal. What is foremost important is the suave nature that you get from this humble AOC Médoc. I would recommend purchasing magnum formats to serve at upscale garden parties or any parties, over the next 5-15 years. Magnums require more bottle aging, so crack it open in, say, 2023 for an early drinking window and pour away. The magnum price lies between $50 and $60 and will reward you more than that!  92

Clos du Marquis – This estate is getting better and better, and – mind you – it is not the second wine of Léoville Las Cases (anymore). Blending 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc, this wine was made from grapes of vines that average 35 years old (youngest are 18). The name of Clos du Marquis, created in 1902, was inspired by the Petit Clos adjacent to the Château de Léoville, residence of the Marquis de Las Cases. The Clos du Marquis is produced from top terroirs of the Saint-Julien Appellation that were not part of the old Domaine de Léoville cadastre. These terroirs are located slightly to the west and are surrounded by many of today’s Super Seconds, including Léoville Poyferré, Léoville Barton and Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande. The 2016 Clos du Marquis offers a fine expression of the Saint Julien character, with pure cassis and pencil lead aromatics. The palate exhibits fine tonicity on a long and lifting finish. One of the best Clos du Marquis I recall enjoying. And there is structure and potential complexity with aging potential. The alcohol is just over 13.5% with 3.87 grams per liter of acidity and a rather high IPT of 78. 93+

The Clos du Marquis has improved since the estate made selections more refined, with the recent second wine of Clos du Marquis, dubbed, La Petite Marquise, which offers succulent fruit on the palate, with a cool blueberry aspect. Fine for restaurants, this smooth blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon and 48% Merlot. 90 Read More

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From 1522 to 2018: Enjoying Philipponnat Champagne

Champagne evening at Mirabelle Restaurant in Washington D.C.

By Panos Kakaviatos for

9 November 2018

When asked by Heidi Arnold of the famous Heart’s Delight Wine Auction here in Washington D.C. if I wanted to join a special Champagne dinner with Charles Philipponnat, I hesitated to reply for … not even a second.

Over the years, I have always enjoyed the Clos de Goisses cuvée of this famous Philipponnat Champagne house.

But I had not yet tried the “1522” bottling, which is made partly from grapes grown on vines on a plot that had been purchased by the Philipponnat family way back in… 1522, and which is still part of the Champagne house today.

A blend of 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay, the Pinot Noir comes from that famous and very old plot purchase called “Le Léon” in Aÿ. The Chardonnay in the blend comes from vines at Mesnil-sur-Oger. Owner Charles Philipponnat inaugurated this wine only in 2000, and it was great to enjoy it with delicious roasted quail, stuffed with mushrooms, spinach, chestnut bisque and hazelnuts and bacon.

A wine that you just want to grab!

The quail was tender and tasty – and the wine matched it perfectly, as this 2007 vintage of “1522” conveyed richness yet fine acidity and bubbles, very elegant. Indeed, the wine’s freshness is preserved as a portion of the wines are vinified in wooden barrels without malolactic fermentation. Dosage is low at 4.25 grams per litre, which is just one third of the “conventional dosage” for a brut champagne. It is aged for eight years in bottle on the dead lees, which lends complexity.

About the venue and the people

This and other excellent bubblies were enjoyed by some 24 participants at a dinner gathering at Mirabelle Restaurant in downtown Washington D.C.

I had met restaurant director Jennifer Knowles at a wine dinner I organized at the famous Ripple restaurant in Washington D.C. a few years ago. Her grace and precision in describing each food that was paired with the wines impressed us all, as did the creative, refined cuisine of executive chef Keith Bombaugh, as you will read in further descriptions of his culinary work paired with Philipponnat wines below.

With Sarah Bray of VinConnect at the Philipponnat dinner

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Judging top wines with oysters

#osyterriot2018 in Washington D.C.

By Panos Kakaviatos for (top photo by Maria Denton) 

6 November 2018

How do you sample an oyster?

You can’t really chew and spit, as you do with wine.

That was but one question I pondered, when asked to participate last night as a judge for #osyterriot2018. It was the 24th edition in Washington D.C. of judging which wine goes best with oysters.

Thanks to Maria Denton, who recently has taken on wine responsibilities for the top two grossing independent restaurants in the nation’s capital : the legendary (established in 1856) Old Ebbitt Grill and the more recent The Hamilton (once the sight of the long defunct Garfinckel’s department store).

I joined several other judges downstairs at the expansive Old Ebbit Grill, where we sat before a plate full of Kusshi oysters (conveniently small to taste) and 20 white wines. Read More

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Pomerol 2016 from bottle wins big

Including brands at $35-$55 per bottle

(Bordeaux 2016 from bottle, part I)

4 November 2018

By Panos Kakaviatos for 

Writing about 2016 from bottle, let’s start with Pomerol, an appellation that is often better now in bottle than it was from barrel in April 2017. This small appellation of some 150 estates is not cheap, but the 2016 vintage seems to have lifted many boats, including less expensive $35- to $50-a-bottle wines.

2016 tends to have more acidity than 2015. The tannins seem more structured, too. The vintage conveys cooler blue fruit but not without Merlot charm, richness and body. Some wines exude dark fruit opulence, but not as obviously as they did in 2015 (and certainly less so than in 2009). With some exceptions, they are not as big and as bold as the 2010s, either. The most successful Pomerols in 2016 convey polish, fruit purity, structure and palate density, with long finishes marked by pleasing lift and tonicity.

Sounds good, right? Well, for the most part, it is!

Dear reader: just a reminder that to keep this site free, I appreciate subscribers. I travel to Bordeaux on a systematic basis – at least twice a year – and have gotten to know many of the industry players as well as producers quite well over the past 15 years now.

So, thanks for asking your friends to subscribe.

One other thing: I missed a few from bottle this time around, including Clinet, Evangile, Lafleur, Le Pin and Eglise Clinet. I will try to get to them in future. Read More

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Assyrtiko: A Comet beyond Santorini

By Panos Kakaviatos for

9 October 2018

In recent articles about Assyrtiko in Greece, in Wine Review Online and in Decanter, I focused on Santorini, the grape’s main island claim to fame. But, as Yiannis Karakasis MW reminded me over a marvelous lunch earlier this month just outside Athens, do not limit yourself to the volcanic island.

We found ourselves dining in a where-time-stops seaside town called Voula. Yiannis Papadakis, sales consultant for the Oenocosmos (that’s Greek for “wine people”), joined us. I met Papadakis for the first time over this lunch, although we have been Facebook friends, where we differed on who is the best rock drummer ever. For me, it is John Bonham and for Yiannis it is Keith Moon. Both were great to be sure.

Great food and wine match, and notice that fresh taramosalata

Many thanks to Karakasis for treating us to lunch: Yet more proof of Filoxenia from Greece and Greeks. I owe you one, mate. He brought two wines, to boot, starting with the very tasty Tio Pepe Una Palma Fino. The Fino Sherry was selected from just three casks of six-year-old Tio Pepe, with a flor yeast veil, displaying golden hues. Bottled sans filtration or fining, this Sherry evinced an elegant nose and distinctly saline notes. Its 15.5 % alcohol was barely noticeable; it was refined in expression. Read More

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