Wine ChroniclesBordeaux: more than just big names
Posted on October 21, 2015
Joy in Montagne and Lalande de Pomerol with Jeff Berrouet
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
21 October 2015
Jean-Claude Berrouet, long time director of Petrus, bought Vieux Château Saint André in the somewhat obscure appellation of Montagne Saint Emilion back in 1978.
Why Montagne?
He had a double activity: vinifying wines for negociant Jean Pierre Moueix but also purchasing grapes from various terroirs. At that time, the company sold lots of bulk wines (en vrac in French) and Jean-Claude got to know many of the vineyards.
“My father sensed the quality of the vines,” remarked Jeff, his son, “so he bought the 11 hectares in Montagne.”
It was great to spend some time with Jeff who manages both Vieux Château Saint André in Montagne Saint Emilion and Château Samion in Lalande de Pomerol, which his father also had purchased.
“About 15 years ago, no one talked about Lalande de Pomerol, but that is changing,” Jeff said. “I see that more and more neighbors are interested when properties are on sale around here.”
Jeff Berrouet in the vat room at Château Samion, pouring some wine.
Both wines constitute bargains for Bordeaux wine lovers. Read More
Magical evening, majestic Margaux
Posted on October 18, 2015
18 October 2015
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
Earlier this month, a Hollywood like short film was published on YouTube recounting the story of how in 1810, the Marquis de la Colonilla, then owner of Château Margaux, requested one of the greatest architects of the time Louis Combes, to design a new layout for the estate.
The old buildings were demolished, except the XVIII century Orangery which served as a cellar during the construction. The project was completed in 1815. This building complex, which was registered as an Historic Monument in 1946, has remained unchanged until the present day.
The nine minute film, by Bruno Aveillan, includes an intricate model and simulated construction of the original estate, as well as an alluring woman in red who plays an inspirational role for the architect.
Although only published this month on YouTube, it was first shown on 14 June on a large screen to the international press, at Château Margaux, for a magnificent dinner. Bordaux wine merchants and importers were invited on 16 June to a similar dinner for the film – and to commemorate new buildings that had been designed by architect Lord Norman Foster. Read More
No more Jubilee
Posted on October 11, 2015
Hugel’s trend towards terroir, over brand
11 October 2015
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
As we have seen with Trimbach, in a previous post from these pages, the historic Alsace estate Hugel also has been critical of the grand cru AOC system established in Alsace in 1975, and revised in the 1980s.
Both estates have long preferred championing their brand wines.
Even if such famous brands as Hugel’s Jubilee and Trimbach’s Cuvee Frederic Emile have been made from vines grown on grand cru terroirs, neither estates ever bothered to mention that fact.
Until recently …
Back in April this year, I reported in decanter.com about a major change in “terroir direction” chez Hugel concerning their Schoelhammer Riesling 2007, named after a specific plot of vines from a grand cru terroir where Hugel owns vines. Read More
Terroir evolution for Maison Trimbach …
Posted on October 10, 2015
… and the just-released 2008 Clos Sainte Hune, among other delights
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
Among highlights of my visit on 5 October to this marvelous Alsace producer? Two vintages of the famous Clos Sainte Hune. This exceptional wine is a product of the terroir in the Rosacker grand cru vineyard, located in the village of Hunawihr. Stretching over 1.67 hectares, this parcel has been in the Trimbach family for over 200 years.
#winelover founder Luiz Alberto assessing two world class Rieslings
Ideally south and south-east facing vines, with vines averaging 50 years old. They lie on a predominantly limestone subsoil. These factors give this Riesling a unique flavor of remarkable fruit concentration, enhanced by a refined hint of “minerality” (wet stone, to me) on the finish, and we got – for both very different vintages in 2009 and 2008 – pine needle like freshness.
But there were many other highlights to this visit, including tasting with #winelover founder Luiz Alberto, whose wine passion is evident. Read More
Gruaud Larose 2000
Posted on October 6, 2015
Yet more proof (is it really needed?) of why fine Bordeaux is so age worthy…
By Panos Kakaviatos for wine-chronicles.com
6 October 2015
Gruaud Larose. An excellent Bordeaux, a second growth from Saint Julien. I have always enjoyed the wines from this property. In a blind tasting of both the second and first wine, from the celebrated 2000 vintage, two experienced wine tasters mistook both for a much younger vintage.
Even if sometimes a brett factor in older vintages can be noticeable, the underlying terroir – yes, #winelovers, the terroir – usually ends up dominating the taste, over time in bottle. Read More
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