2024 Bordeaux: just before bottling

Posted on April 15, 2026

By Panos Kakaviatos for Wine Chronicles 

15 April 2026

All eyes this month are on the promising 2025 vintage from barrel in Bordeaux, and the world is abuzz with an urgent need to get a successful en primeur campaign or else “en primeur is dead”, Edouard Moueix is quoted as saying in a Decanter article.

But en primeur has been facing possible death in recent years already, with too many overpriced wines and unsold stocks gathering dust in warehouses. How many times do Bordeaux brokers and negociants say that prices need to come down? Many times.

So where does the less heralded 2024 vintage fit into this picture? Olivier Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier spoke to me after I tasted scores of 2024 vintage wines just before their bottling, thanks to wine merchant Millésima in Bordeaux for inviting to taste.

I missed the barrel tastings last year because of a knee operation, and Olivier emphasized that 2024 is less expensive than 2021. “We learned a lesson with 2021 having been too expensive”, he told me, so that with 2024, you get wines at a lower price for the level of quality. He makes sense. And for lovers of Bordeaux, like a collector and fan I met last week while in Bordeaux, acquiring off vintages are worth completing a collection of brands he likes. Certainly 2024 will be a wine to enjoy while you wait for the 2018-2020, 2022-2023 to enter a mature drinking window, for example.

After tasting scores of 2024 wines, from the Right Bank to the Left Bank, I say buy with care, nonetheless. We’re living now in a fragile market, especially more recently with rising energy costs and people not drinking as much alcohol. And, as already stated above, there is a lot of unsold wine in the pipeline. Prices could go down even further, something to which I attest: I’ve purchased wine over the years in bond sitting in London warehouses, and I’ve lost about 30% of the value, as have other people.

We can talk about wine being a liquid asset and wine being liquid pleasure. If you’re looking at 2024, it does not pack as much pleasure as vintages like 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2018, 2019 and 2020, let alone 2023 and what looks to be an absolutely lovely vintage in 2025. But, as Olivier noted, prices are low, so what to do? Younger buyers enthusiastic about Bordeaux should look to some estates and, based on price, they can go for it. Older buyers like me tend to buy back vintages that have become less expensive in recent years.

Volvo vintage 

Tasting through these wines, I found that some lacked worthy mid palates, and when they did offer mid-palate juiciness and (some) depth, they often came with short finishes. I encountered some green tannin in a few wines. And yet, quite a few did very well! Hats off then to talented winemakers who were able to best make use of the challenging conditions! For details on these challenges, notably excessive rains at the wrong time, I recommend this summary by friend Colin Hay in Drinks Business, published last year.

Overall, the best efforts were those that did not try to make a Ferrari out of a Volvo, with all due respect to Volvo, which makes nice cars. And I think it was telling that when I went to Château Haut Bailly the night before for a (brilliant) tasting of the 2025 from barrel and the 2023, now in bottle, director Véronique Sanders said that the estate dubbed 2024 Singing in the Rain!  I think that’s a positive way of looking at the vintage. She said that one should take each vintage as it comes and treat it with care, and Haut Bailly performed honorably in 2024.

Other than pricing, another bit of good news for 2024 is that it transcends the French adage petite année, grand vin, which means that in a weak vintage, go for the very best producers. And while that holds true for 2024, I am pleased to report that less heralded producers who treated the vintage for what it is; Look to the humble estate of Château de Sales in Pomerol or the rather economically priced Third Growth Château La Lagune to take two examples that did not over extract or over oak or over do, thus proposing decent wines to be enjoyed over lunch, without much thinking. In fact, while de Sales is more for luncb, La Lagune is more serious, and a better wine.

No point scores in this essay because I sometimes struggle with them. I like to use the 100 point scale, but it has long ceased being that way. Can a 2024 be a serious 96 point wine when compared to a 2022 or 2016? I do not think so. Heck, the 100 point scale is not even a  10-point scale because if a wine gets below 95, it is not considered easy to sell. Long gone are the days when 87 meant something, the equivalent of a B+ in U.S. grading, and a B+ should reflect wine that is good. Many 2024s should be more than happy with a B to a B+ for example. Give the A grades to top wines in top vintages like 2016.

Some wines from the Millésima did not reach a quality level worthy of posting, so this listing includes a selection of my favorites. Instead of numerical scores, please follow a more general grading system: if in bold, I liked. If bold and red text, too, then the wine is extra special. Finally, if red, bold and underlined, then buy for certain. I did not get any asterisk* wines, which means wine nirvana. Let’s save that for 2025s in June, when I post notes on those barrel samples. 🙂

Each of the wines in alphabetical order. To jump to an appellation, just click on each category:

Saint-Émilion/ Pomerol / The Médoc / Others

RIGHT BANK 

Saint-Émilion – Some very good wines in this appellation, and Château Figeac comes out on top among those tasted 

Château Beau-Séjour Bécot Premier Grand Cru Classé (PGCC) Saint-Émilion – This blend of 78% Merlot and 22% Cabernet Franc, clocking in at 13% alcohol exudes fine ripe fruit aromas, with hints of limestone freshness, similar to that of Château Canon. The palate succeeds in conveying ripe fruit, quite like Clos Fourtet, with an extra bit of brightness. As with other 2024s, the finish comes up a bit short, but that is the nature of the vintage, as compared to aforementioned superior vintages: this is how the 2024 cookie crumbles.

Château Canon PGGC Saint-Émilion – Also a blend of 78% Merlot and 22% Cabernet Franc, aged in just under 50% new oak, the wine exudes vivid (and lovely) wet stone aromatics, like other wines on the plateau. I think of the fine Château Laroque for example, but Canon evinces superior aromatic depth. The palate is quite smooth, marked by refined tannin, thoroughly medium bodied, and not trying to be more. In a challenging vintage, this is quite good indeed.

Château Clos Fourtet PGCC Saint-Émilion – Another lovely nose after assessing the Canon. This blend of 84% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon boasts one of the very best aromas from the tasting, so hats off. The palate does not quite follow through, but the cinnamon spice and the nicely ripe red and black fruit defy the wet (Singing in the Rain!) vintage identity. While Canon evinces wet (lime)stone, Clos Fourtet dares to – and achieves – a rare opulence for the vintage. It comes across more medium- than full-bodied, and the length does not match, say, 2023 or 2022 or 2015, 2016, 2018-2020, but this is very good wine for the vintage.

Château Dassault Grand Cru Classé (GCC) Saint-Émilion– This has character, with layered density to the palate. Even if, it lacks the éclat and vivacity of a better vintage, the aromatics evince damson, hints of  fresh cut grass and vanilla. It is solid, medium bodied blend of 67% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon clocking in at 13.5% alcohol, which has impressive depth for the pedigree – and the price.

Château La Dominique GCC Saint-Émilion – Sinewy aromatics of bright red fruit and tobacco leaf arise from this blend of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc, clocking in at 13.5% alcohol. There is palate refinement with ripe fruit, albeit – yet again – with a somewhat shorter-than-expected finish, but let’s praise mid-palate juiciness. One of the more successful among the St-Émilion wines of 2024, with agreeable freshness on the finish.

Château Figeac PGCC-A Saint-Émilion – Floral nose with ripe, red berry fruit and plum. There is depth to the aromas that introduce a refined medium-bodied palate that is not trying to be more than the vintage offers, like other successful wines in this pre-bottling series at Millésima. In short, the wine is appealing, even if it tastes like a “lower gear” Figeac, as if the orchestra were missing a few instruments. Still, an impressive performance: no rough edges with one of the longest (sneaky) finishes of the 2024 vintage, from this blend of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot und 28% Cabernet Franc. Bravo! About 13.5% alcohol and aged 15 months in 100% new oak.

Château Fombrauge GCC Saint-Émilion – Licorice, black fruit, clove aromas presage a palate with depth. I can see this as a glass selection at a wine bar: it conveys pleasure. If not especially profound, a solid wine. As with many other 2024s, the finish ends a bit abruptly however.

Château Larcis Ducasse PGCC Saint-Émilion– Blending 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet France with 13.5% alcohol, the somewhat muted aromas evince ripe enough fruit. The palate is balanced and poised and has more depth than many other 2024s encountered, so in a sense, the palate is quite successful. I just wish the fruit were more exuberant, so that explains a somewhat lower level of enthusiasm even if Larcis Ducasse clearly passes the 2024 test!

Château Laroque GCC Saint-Émilion – Lovely aromas reflect the limestone terroir: chalk, wet stone, plum. The palate lacks the depth of a better vintage, and a certain 2024 thinness comes through, alas, but rather successful for the vintage. I can imagine this with grilled steak or risotto mushrooms.

Château Pavie Macquin PGCC Saint-Émilion – Nuanced aromatics: floral, fruit and spice. The palate is suave and agreeable – more successful than sister estate Larcis Ducasse. Sure, this blend of 84% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, at 13% alcohol, comes up a bit short on the finish, but the wine conveys an undeniably savory mid palate. Nice job.

Château Trotte Vieille PGCC Saint-Émilion – This estate famously blends in a majority of Cabernet Franc and 2024 is no exception, at 56% Cabernet Franc, 41% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon, clocking in at 14% alcohol. A spicy, nutmeg aspect, with a velvety palate touch, the tannic structure is noticeable but not hard. The estate has achieved a fine level of ripeness for the vintage, and I think cellaring will be rewarded for the tannins to integrate more. Overall, a fine job here.

Château Valandraud PGCC Saint-Émilion – There is a richness to the nose that reflects also the 100% new oak for aging, but the oaky aspect is not as blatant as it has been in earlier vintages. The palate exhibits ripe fruit, juiciness, with some new oak tannin but – again – I am impressed how the wine is not like sucking an oak stick, as the new oak has been (largely) absorbed, and I get little drying out sensations that I had gotten in some past vintages. Check out the darker color as compared to the Pavie Macquin.

Pomerol – Among the wines tasted, Château Evangile on top 

Château Beauregard – This blend of 67% Merlot, 24% Cabernet France, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon at 13% alcohol has medium-body and depth that appeals, a successful wine for the vintage, with ripe Merlots that count. It lacks the profundity of a better vintage, but overall, a pleasing drink. Some ripe red apple freshness, along with plum mark the finish.

Château La Conseillante – No surprises here, as the aromatic and palate finesse is unmistakable from this top estate in the appellation: a wine of breed with gorgeous floral aromatics, with an elegant palate. On the other hand, this blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc lacks the depth and length of better vintages, so depending on the price, one may or may not choose to purchase. Then again, a worthy addition for fans of the wine for cellar completion!

Clos du Clocher – A more serious aromatic profile than neighbor Château Beauregard, with more evidently darker ripe fruit, along with oak-derived aromas and licorice. I get more verve, more spine from this wine, albeit lacking – again – the depth you would get from a 2022 or a 2018. The tannins that bring structure are quite in evidence: not hard but edgy. Give it time to settle. Not great, but good. Have I said that enough?

Château Evangile – Here a wine that clearly stands out among its 2024 peers as it conveys depth, refinement and even ripe charm. One of the top aromatic expressions of the entire tasting at Millésima, with plum and spice, violet (and violet stem). Unlike many 2024s, one gets a sense of genuine breadth. Sure, not as much as in 2022 or 2023, for example, but it comes across successfully.

Château Petit Village – Like sister estate Château Beauregard, a smooth wine that has freshness: nicely done wine!

Château de Sales – Pleasing, bright fruit aromatics with a bit of fresh meadow. The light bodied wine has appeal, if not particular depth. Solid. For the price, if low enough, why not? Smooth tannins that count, too.

LEFT BANK 

Margaux – Among the wines tasted, Château Brane Cantenac comes out on top, although other brands (Giscours, Palmer and d’Issan) come very close  

Château Brane Cantenac – Lovely notes of crushed mint leaf and ripe red berry fruit emanate from this blend of 77% Cabernet Franc, 22% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. The palate structure is excellent with smooth tannin, proving that reaching high in a middling vintage like 2024 yields results. Quite juicy for the vintage, but neither as long nor as deep as better vintages, and yet there is something particularly special about Brane in 2024.

Château Durfort Vivens – Straight-up honest to the vintage, no rough edges, well-made wine, exuding salinity, red fruit and a certain savory aspect to the medium body. While optimal ripeness is not quite reached, one senses nice wine with tannic structure and a smooth palate, leaving one with the thought that the estate made an honest attempt to craft as best a possible a wine under wet conditions.

Château Giscours – This blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 6% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot exudes licorice notes and rather ripe fruit with vibrancy on the mid palate. A successful 2024 – one that you should not hesitate if encountered at a restaurant and the price is right.

Château d’Issan – This Margaux Third Growth excels in the vintage, similar to Brane Cantenac, officially a Second Growth. I like the ripe fruit, moderate depth and palate nuance from this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and the rest bits of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec having aged in 50% new oak. Nice job!

Château Palmer – Refined aromatics, some oak-derived notes, but also ripe fruit and spice. Fine depth, smooth tannins, but also foreboding tannin that needs time to settle. An impressive Palmer for the vintage.

Château Rauzan Segla – Plenty of depth and truly rises to the occasion as a Super Second, with ripe fruit and power, too, without being hard. It lacks charm and refinement, however, something that one would normally obtain from this mighty estate, but it is 2024.

Saint Julien – I did not taste as many as I would have liked, given time constraints, but among the wines tasted, Château Léoville Barton comes out on top 

Château Branaire Ducru – Pleasant aromas. Playing safe, not over extracted, light and pleasing, and exuding what you want from Saint Julien: charm.

Château Léoville Barton – Pencil lead, ripe black fruit and racy aromatics: very nice. Smooth palate, wow, this is quite nice indeed, how did they do that? It lacks the depth of a better vintage but this counts among the smoothest and most appealing expressions of 2024 tasted at Millésima. It lacks a long finish but is nonetheless absolutely lovely, and for the price, very worthy!

Ch Leoville Poyferré – Very good ripe fruit expressions, and I like the power on the palate. Like Lynch Bages, rather excellent for the vintage. But also somewhat disjointed, as the tannins seem to be protruding rather than integrated. But it should come together with time in your cellar.

Pauillac – A strong appellation for the vintage with good to very good wines. Pichon Comtesse gets my nod as the best

Château d’Armailhac – This blend of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% each of Merlot and Cabernet France exudes nuance and some refinement. I get a sense of care in crafting this wine, no roughness, and character. Bravo!

Château Batailley – Well done, this blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and one per cent Petit Verdot: rather subtle power, ripe fruit, not drying. It is not the most consequential either among these fine Pauillacs, but an “honest” wine for the vintage!

Château Clerc Milon – Compared to the sister estate d’Armailhac, I get more evident power from this blend of 66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and one per cent each of Carmenère and Petit Verdot. The tannic edge is present but, again, not hard. This is another fine wine for the vintage. Aging in 55% new oak.

Château Duhart Milon – An even better wine than the above, this blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot communicates more class, more refinement, and even more (subtle) power. I like this quite a bit. Great team behind the wine, to be sure. A top Pauillac for the money. Bravo!

Château Grand Puy Lacoste – This blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot and 13.5% alcohol gets close to my wine of the appellation, as it comes across rather spherical: juicy, nuanced, and smooth. What more do you want from a 2024?

Château Haut Bages Liberal – This has power and smooth tannin, and I prefer it to Lynch Bages on one level, in the sense that it has some initial charm, but it comes across a bit clumsy/disjointed through to the finish, which is not the case of Lynch Bages, tasted alongside.

Château Lynch Bages – As expected this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot and the rest even parts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot packs plenty of tannin. The power impresses, but just a bit of dryness on the finish annoys. Having said all that, pretty impressive – this power – in a vintage that too often seems stuck in a lower gear. Give it time in your cellar.

Château Pichon Longueville Baron – Royal elegance aromatics. The announcement is bold and the palate has power, yes! It comes across just a bit drying. However, the depth impresses more so than other wines, even if I still hold a special place for GPL – and Léoville Barton. Whatever the case may be, if you are a Baron fan and seek completion, the 2024 is worthwhile.

Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande – Hats off to Nicolas Glumineau, because he and his team have crafted an absolutely lovely wine in 2024! OK, a smidgen of drying on the longer than usual for the vintage finish but otherwise, juicy and bright, this blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc. One wants to keep taking another sip, which is a rare quality for 2024.

Saint Estephe – Among those tasted, Cos d’Estournel on top 

Château Cos d’Estournel – What class and breed! This blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Merlot and 1% each of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, clocking in at 12.8% alcohol exudes subtle power and tannic refinement, illustrating the French adage petit millésime, grand vin. Cos is one of the very top wines of this tasting, much like La Comtesse in Pauillac. Bravo!

Château de Pez – One of the more successful 2024s for the price point, no rough edges, has medium length, too. Nuanced palate, smooth tannins and yet there is a hardy St Estephe aspect that appeals and even begs for cellaring. Bravo !

Château Phelan Segur – Lovely wine! Handled the rains nicely. A bit drying on tdhe finish but with a  juicy mid palate. Lacks the follow through of a better vintage, but that’s 2024 for you.

Other wines tasted 

Due to limited time, I could not taste as many wines as I would like and took more cursory notes, but special for a fine showing from Château La Lagune, which came across smoothly and comparatively elegant compared to its peers. I also especially liked Château Pape Clement for its ripe fruit and medium body. It lacks the charm and refinement of a better vintage, but nice job in 2024. Both Domaine de Chevalier and Château Haut Bailly also performed honorably for the vintage.

To conclude, it is important to note that while recent years have often been defined by warm, dry and frequently successful conditions, in vintages like 2018, 2019, 2020, 2022, 2023 and now 2025, vintages like 2021 and 2024 remind us that climate change expresses itself in multiple ways, including periods of excessive rainfall during the growing season, posing different challenges for growers. Hats off to the winemakers for making the best possible wines under such conditions. As we get excited about the promising 2025 tastings from barrel, let’s not overlook quality from the 2024 vintage, as one can find some gems and if the price is right, why not?

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In honor of Daniel Cathiard: Smith Haut Lafitte 2010

Posted on April 5, 2026

By Panos Kakaviatos

Sunday 5 April, 2026

“Nous faisons partie du meuble,” I recall Daniel Cathiard telling me over a chat at his estate, Château Smith Haut Lafitte, in 2009. This French expression describes people who have been around for so long in a place that they are almost invisible, taken for granted, or simply part of the background. As I opened a bottle of Smith Haut Lafitte 2010 for Easter lunch today, that phrase came back to me with particular resonance. Yet when I first met Daniel and his wife Florence sometime in 2001, they were still, in some quarters, seen as something of a departure from established norms.

The passing of Daniel Cathiard in late January this year, at the age of 81, marks the end of one of the most unique and inspiring careers in the modern Bordeaux wine world. A former ski champion, entrepreneur, and then passionate winemaker, he leaves behind a lasting legacy in the heart of Pessac-Léognan and beyond.

Daniel was first known as a member of the celebrated French Olympic ski team of the 1960s, alongside Jean-Claude Killy, Guy Périllat, and Léo Lacroix. Killy, a great lover of fine Bordeaux, would later become the first to sign the visitors’ book at Château Smith Haut Lafitte. Like countless others, I have also added my name in gratitude for the Cathiards’ generous hospitality.

After the death of his father in 1970, Daniel took over the family’s small supermarket business. Over the following two decades, he transformed it into the tenth-largest mass distribution group in France. Never one to stand still, he went on to develop the sporting goods chain Go Sport across France, Belgium, Spain, and even California.

He had met Florence earlier, in 1965, while both were part of the French Olympic ski team. She worked alongside him for a decade managing Genty and Go Sport before launching her advertising agency, later becoming Vice President of McCann Europe in 1985. Their partnership, professional as much as personal, would prove decisive in everything that followed.

In 1990, the couple sold their business interests to acquire Château Smith Haut Lafitte, a Grand Cru Classé in Graves that had long been underestimated. Over the next two years, they invested heavily in restoring the winery and the 18th-century manor house built by George Smith, choosing to make it their home and to devote themselves fully to their new passion: crafting great white and red wines.

In those early years, their arrival, coming from outside the traditional Bordeaux milieu, naturally prompted a degree of curiosity and, at times, a certain reserve among some long-established families of the region.

But what is striking, looking back with a glass of the 2010 in hand, is how completely that perception has faded. The Cathiards’ approach, combining deep respect for the terroir with a commitment to sustainability, innovation, and a genuine sense of hospitality, has not only endured, it has helped redefine expectations.

I recall tasting the 2010 at the château in 2015, during the celebrations of their 25th anniversary. It stood out. Built on a high proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (64%), alongside 30% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot, and from modest yields of 35 hl/ha, it shared much on paper with the 2009. Yet it felt different: fresher, more precise, more bracing. Where the 2009 showed a touch of warmth, the 2010 carried itself with greater tension and clarity.

Tasting it again today, 11 years on, it has entered a fine plateau of evolution. There is a sense of quiet strength and composure: the structure remains firm yet integrated, the fruit vibrant, with tertiary notes just beginning to emerge. It has depth and finesse, a wine at ease with itself. Above all, it is pleasurable, pairing effortlessly with Easter lamb, making the moment feel more complete.

Daniel’s legacy 

Throughout his ownership, Daniel oversaw every detail of the estate with discretion, and Florence brought boundless outward energy, shaping the estate’s global presence and adding the artistic dimension that now defines the property, including Barry Flanagan’s Leaping Hare, which has become its emblem. Under their leadership, Smith Haut Lafitte has become a benchmark of Bordeaux, blending organic viticulture, architectural ambition, and a sense of place that extends well beyond the vineyard. The visit of King Charles III in 2023 only confirmed what had long been evident: that the Cathiards had not simply joined the Bordeaux landscape. They had become an essential part of it. And perhaps that is the quiet irony of Daniel’s remark all those years ago. In time, they did indeed become part of the furniture, but only by reshaping the room around them.

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Over 20 years of tasting together

Posted on January 17, 2026

First growths and more, including 1966 vintage Port

By Panos Kakaviatos for Wine Chronicles 

17 January 2026

Some dinners are memorable for the bottles. Others linger because of the company. Few manage both, while reminding you why you started cellaring wine in the first place.

At 1789 in Georgetown, ten friends gathered for a bring-your-own dinner that quietly marked over two decades of shared tastings in Washington D.C. We had met at many restaurants for wine dinners, some no longer existing, others thriving. No theme was formally announced, this time, yet the evening naturally gravitated toward top-tier Bordeaux, framed by serious Champagne at the outset and dignified sweetness at the close. Each guest arrived with a bottle or two, trusting the table, the food, and the accumulated experience of years spent opening wines together.

The restaurant played its role perfectly. Service was attentive but never intrusive; pacing was calm, unforced, and clearly attuned to the demands of mature bottles. The kitchen showed admirable restraint, allowing the wines to lead rather than compete.

Opening the evening, Domaine Les Monts Fournois “Montagne” 2013 offered a fascinating interplay between freshness and gentle oxidative complexity. The Comtes de Champagne Taittinger Rosé 1996 at first had some musty aspects that quickly dissipated to reveal soft elegance, tertiary aspects combined with strawberry. I liked the wine increasingly – and by the time most guests had left, I tasted it again and loved it! The Krug Vintage 1995 followed with authority: architectural, powerful, and unapologetically structured before an excellent Grand Cru Robert Weil Riesling Kiedrich Gräfenberg 2021 bridged the transition into reds, pairing seamlessly with the Wagyu tartare combined with black garlic aioli, quail egg and dill. Crisp Rheingau Riesling clarity proved an excellent balance to the steak.

Château Ausone 1979 charmed aromatically despite its modest length. It reflected a bygone era when Pascal Delbeck ran winemaking at this storied Saint Emilion. Robert Parker never liked the wines crafted by Delbeck, but this 1979 stood the test of time, pairing especially well with the truffle risotto. We had much anticipation from the Lafite Rothschild

1976, but it had sadly passed its moment, while the Château Ausone 1999 showed youthful richness and promise, reflecting an oakier style four years into the Vauthier era. I did not particularly like it, as later showings from Vauthier are better balanced between oak and ripeness, but still an excellent wine. A blind Montelena Cabernet Sauvignon 1997 surprised many, mistaken for Spain, yet proving its classical Napa credentials. Kevin Shin was – as ever – on the ball here, noting less acidity than an Old-World wine. It was very enjoyable, and logic should have led us to guess: 1976 Judgment of Paris, and here we are in … 2026!

The second red flight sharpened distinctions: Château Latour 1995 – blending 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot 22%, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot – impressed with poise, coming across more supple than powerful, and thoroughly enjoyable! The 1995 vintage was sometimes a mixed bag in Bordeaux, welcome after several tough vintages (1991, 1992, 1993, even 1994), but Latour proved superb.

Château Margaux 1999 emerged as a model of seamless elegance. I had enjoyed another bottle of this same vintage but two weeks earlier, and this bottle proved just as good! Deep red, it opens with black currant and blackberry, accentuated with floral aromatics and licorice. More fill than medium-bodied, I really liked the precision and depth of the wine, balancing acidity and richness – almost effortlessly – with not yet fully resolved tannins (good for future cellaring) that exude seamless texture. Long finish. Although I could just enjoy this wine alone, it paired nicely with the New York Strip and purée of potato.

Graves, with no less than four wines from Domaine Clarence Dillon, delivered an emotional summit. Château Haut-Brion 1995 was linear and intellectual – a very good wine that split opinions over dinner – but most agreed that the 1998 proved transcendent: minty, smoky, refined, and resonant. Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2000 rivalled the greatness of the 1998, reflecting more coiled-in power plus elegance. Along with the Haut Brion 1998, the wine of the night, perhaps just a bit better than the Margaux 1999. As for the La Mission Haut Brion 2005, it remains a study in patience – and a great wine in the making!

The evening closed with a magnificent Fonseca Vintage Port 1966. The brown rim reflected its nearly 60 years, but it tasted more youthful than the years would suggest, still reflecting touches of damson and red berry fruit, along with far more pronounced tertiary notes of orange peel, dry fig, subtle spices – and, especially, fine espresso. The overall impression is that of a refined and composed wine that also is deeply expressive. It paired well with the cheeses but honestly, just drinking it on its own offered much pleasure. It was followed by a radiant Haart Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Beerenauslese 2015.

All in all, a lovely gathering to enjoy wines, time, and (especially) friendship. Such evenings remind us why wine truly matters.

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Margaux, Latour, Trotanoy and so much more

Posted on January 5, 2026

New Year Wine Dinner with Friends

By Panos Kakaviatos for Wine Chronicles 

5 January 2026

Thanks to Tamar and Keith Levenberg for hosting an excellent dinner with Maureen Nelson, Joel Davidson and myself. I had not seen Maureen in ages, so it was especially great to see her: You haven’t changed one bit, Maureen! Each of us brought some fine wines to share.

We opened mostly Bordeaux. Since I am in Alsace, I also brought a Domaine Trimbach Clos Sainte Hune Riesling 2002 (96) to start things. I had purchased it from the winery upon release. It had a dark straw color, but never you mind: not a hint of oxidation. Although a bit musty upon opening, normal after being cooped up in a bottle for nearly 23 years, that blew off after I double decanted. Double decant a dry white, you may be asking? That can be useful, I say!

A somewhat soft spoken Riesling, as Clos Sainte Hune can pack more power. Medium bodied, but it builds, beckoning further drinking. The balance between 4.2 grams per liter of residual sugar and 9 grams of total acidity left a dry impression, with lemon peel, white stone fruit, and hints of wet earth but not “old” tasting. That last aspect merely added complexity to the picture. Over three hours later, for the cheese course, we returned to the wine, which was not put on ice or in the fridge, and I dare say that it improved with respect to freshness and vibrancy. The palate felt suave and smooth. A long, albeit subtle finish. Not powerful or intense, but subtle. A friend tells me that he refuses to serve quality Riesling unless at least 21 years old, and this 23-year-old wine proved his point. The estate dubs 2002 as an “outstanding vintage, especially for Riesling”. The alcohol clocks in at 13%.

Clos Sainte Hune has 1.67 hectares under vine on stony argilo-calcaire, or Muschelkalk, limestone terroir, exclusively planted in Riesling, and located in the heart of Grand Cru Rosacker, in Hunawihr. The limestone soil allows this Riesling to develop a specific aroma and a wonderful concentration of fruits. Dry yet succulent, of phenomenal complexity, this wine develops an extraordinary aftertaste of wet stone after a few years in bottle. The plot, which is approximately 50 to 70 years old, is south south east exposed and the yields are low. Annual production reaches about 9,000 bottles, depending on the vintage.

Thanks to our wonderful hosts for superb salami and foie gras, French bread, and caviar atop Tamago tofu, also known as egg tofu, which is a popular Japanese custard made from eggs and dashi (Japanese soup stock), not soybeans. Its name comes from the smooth, silken texture and square shape, which resembles traditional tofu. All of the above went especially well with the Clos Sainte Hune.

Thanks to Maureen Nelson, we kicked off with an excellent Les Forts de Latour 2000 (94), the second wine of Château Latour. What struck me was the youthful blueberry cool fruit and cassis, delivered smooth. A pristine expression not too tertiary but with hints of cigar box and plenty of plum like richness and excellent integration of the new oak. Shortly after release, the celebrated critic Robert Parker said that this second wine would evolve for about 15 years, but it is firmly in a pleasing drinking window at about 25 years in bottle, no doubt (at all) due to the unhurried ripening period of the 2000 vintage, plus an Indian summer that led to optimal harvest conditions, reflecting balance and poise.

Did you know that the wine was first labelled with this name in 1966? Grapes come from the edge of the famous Enclos at Latour and from plots located outside the Enclos, in Cru Classé areas of Pauillac such as Piñada, Petit Batailley and St. Anne, which have belonged to the estate for more than a century and whose vines benefit from a high average age (around 40 years). Furthermore some plots that could be used in the Grand Vin may finally be included in the Forts de Latour blend, depending on how their quality is judged during the blending tastings. Les Forts de Latour is produced with the same care as the Château Latour, both in the vineyard and in the winery. One main difference, apart from grape origin, is a lower proportion of new barrels – between 50 to 60% – for aging. The blend for Forts de Latour also varies from one year to the next, but there is almost always a higher proportion of Merlot (25 to 30%) compared to the Grand Vin. Not sure about the exact blend for the 2000.

Latour and Margaux: 1999 

We then tried the Château Latour 1999 (93), which I had purchased shortly after release, from a French merchant. It is interesting to note that Robert Parker dubbed the 1999 Latour “exceptional” for the vintage, a “modern day version of Latour’s magnificent 1962 or 1971” when he tasted the wine from barrel. Just over 25 years later, what’s the verdict? I had double decanted the wine four hours before it was served over Keith’s amazingly delicious filet mignon of elk (accompanied by equally fabulous and silky smooth purée de pommes de terre and haricots).

It is a good idea to aerate a wine of 25 years, to allow for any stuffy aromas to dissipate, and they did. The wine revealed quite a lot of fruit but also high-toned acidity that left its mark, in contrast to the more supple and richer Les Forts from the superior 2000 vintage. Over time, the 1999 exhibited floral and fresh meadow tertiary notes, as well as the telltale Pauillac graphite. While the 2000 showed fuller body and superior richness, I grew to enjoy the linearity of the 1999 Grand Vin. It had a longer finish, its inherent tension matching the richness of the elk nicely, but was not quite as good as the Forts de Latour from the 2000 vintage.

About 1999 

Why the 1999? Joel brought the Château Margaux 1999, so I thought it would be fun to compare the two First Growths from that vintage. While 2000 is seen as an exceptional vintage, especially in the Médoc, 1999 proved more challenging, taking a clear back seat to the 2000 due to unpredictable growing conditions: In August 1999, the outlook was reasonable despite a hurricane early in the season and wet weather late in the Spring. Then rain storms hit with a vengeance. Because we also enjoyed the Château Margaux 1999, I tried to look up precise station rain totals for Margaux vs. Pauillac in 1999, but they aren’t easily available online. I think that terroir differences support the idea that Margaux “withstood” the heavy late season rainfall better than Pauillac/Latour. So even if actual rain totals weren’t wildly different between the northern and southern Médoc in 1999, Margaux soils likely coped better with late showers, potentially preserving sugar accumulation and limiting dilution effects compared to Pauillac/Latour. Indeed, Château Latour displays deep, dense layers of coarse gravel on a subsoil of clay and marl while Château Margaux shows thinner, more superficial and finer gravel mixed with varying amounts of sand, limestone, chalk, and clay.

Château Margaux 1999 (96) – I recall first encountering this wine at the château with fellow wine aficionado Frédéric Lot, after it had just been bottled, back in 2001 during a visit to the estate, along with 1997, 1998 and 2000 – then a barrel sample. While the 2000 showed the most promise back then, the 1999 was my second favorite, followed by the (then) more charming 1997 and finally the (then) rather closed 1998. More recently, some seven years ago, over a vertical at Taberna Del Alabardero in Washington D.C., I rated it 94 as yielding a fresh bouquet of spring flowers and bergamot tea along with a touch of wet earth, the palate (then) lovely in its elegance, easy to drink, even though lacking the backbone of the 1996, which had been tasted alongside.

But chez Keith and Tamar, the wine had just been popped and poured, unlike the double-decanted Latour 1999. From the start, it displayed impressive palate depth, more so than the Latour 1999, which was medium-bodied compared to Margaux’s more full bodied aspect. The Margaux also displayed better focused red and black berry fruit, furthermore leading to wonderful crushed mint and tobacco expressions on the long finish. In a review from 2022, William Kelly compared it to the 1985 vintage, and that is quite a compliment. I can see why. I really liked the 1999 Margaux this time.

Château Trotanoy 1998 (97) – Thanks to Keith, this majestic wine also was served, and I immediately loved it, also as a superlative pairing to the elk filet. Trotanoy can be like Léoville Las Cases: it can take a long time to open up, but by Golly in January 2026, the wine sang. It stole the red wine show with mellowed power, sophisticated richness and suave tannin and fine dark chocolate notes along with Médoc-like graphite. A wine of layered polish, not gloss. With time in glass, it only improved. And consider just how good 1998 was for Merlot-dominant wines in Pomerol: powerful, concentrated, tannic, and long-lived reds with rich dark fruit and spice. After nearly 27 years in bottle, Trotanoy has entered an early drinking window. Yes, early! Many critics say that 1998 counts as one of the greatest Right Bank vintages ever. It is most certainly a benchmark vintage.

Jean-Pierre Moueix purchased the estate in 1953, but Château Trotanoy has been considered one of the premier crus of Pomerol since the end of the 18th century. The soil of Château Trotanoy is a combination of gravel and very dense clay which tends to solidify as it dries out after rain to an almost concrete-like hardness, hence the name “Trotanoy,” which can mean “too wearisome” in French. The Trotanoy vineyard slopes gently to the west. The soil at the highest point of exposure contains a good proportion of gravel, becoming progressively more dominated by clay as the elevation declines.

Under this clay is a subsoil of red gravel and an impermeable layer of hard, iron-rich soil known as crasse de fer. This soil diversity brings power, depth and complexity to the wine. Trotanoy is vinified in small concrete vats, while aging takes place in oak barrels, about 50% new oak. Trotanoy is a naturally profound, complex, richly-concentrated wine with outstanding aging potential, proven in this 1998. The wine possesses a deep color and a dense, powerful nose, repeated on the palate with the addition of creamy, dark chocolate notes, and a singular concentration of flavor owed to its very old vines.

A final red, vintage 1945 

Keith and I have been trying to source a bottle of Château Mouton Rothschild 1945 and share the cost among several wine pals, but it is evidently not an easy task. And what happens when one purchases such an old bottle and then encounters a cork or other problem? Keith sourced a Baron Philippe wine from the 1945 vintage, coming from, as the label indicates, the best vines of the former Mouton d’Armailhac vineyards. Much of the vines used to craft the bottle that Keith opened for us – the Château Mouton Baron Philippe 1945 vintage – would later be used for what has come to be known today as Château d’Armailhac. Upon opening I was struck by almost salty taffy aromas, not unappealing, and actually quite intriguing. The palate was more aggressive in nature and quite acidic. The wine, alas, was past due, as can happen with such old bottles. But kudos to Keith for bringing this to the table, as the label is gorgeous!

Château Climens Barsac 1988 (97) – For the superb assortment of cheeses, we enjoyed both the Clos Sainte Hune but also – especially with the blue type cheeses – the exceptional Climens from Barsac. I have always loved this wine, and thanks to Maureen for the half bottle, which did not disappoint. Time in glass yielded vivid notes of candied orange peel, crème brûlée, black tea and subtle ginger from the botrytis (noble rot).

The 1988 vintage in Barsac (and Sauternes) was outstanding, considered one of the best of the late 1980s, marked by excellent noble rot developing later in October after a warm and dry September, leading to rich, honeyed, and complex sweet wines with great acidity and aging potential. Château Climens along with Coutet produced great wines from Barsac in that vintage, still vibrant today, as proven over this dinner. And thanks to Keith and Tamara for the intensely delicious chocolate cake, which also paired well with the Barsac.

All in all, a great evening!

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Revisiting Weingut Bernhard Huber

Posted on December 29, 2025

Malterdingen, Baden-Württemberg: Burgundy Precision, Baden Soul

By Panos Kakaviatos for Wine Chronicles

29 December 2025

A visit to Weingut Bernhard Huber in Malterdingen is never just a tasting; it is a lesson in continuity, restraint, and conviction. I visited the estate on 11 November, in the calm that follows harvest – and a bank holiday in France. Julian Huber was not present that day, but a highly accomplished sommelier from the estate welcomed a friend and me, guiding us through an impressively broad and revealing lineup.

Few German wineries have shaped the modern understanding of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay as profoundly as Huber. Bernhard Huber was among the first to demonstrate that Germany could produce Pinot Noirs of genuine gravitas and longevity, not by chasing ripeness, but by embracing structure, restraint, and terroir. Bernhard’s frequent exchanges with Burgundy and his refusal to follow trends allowed him, already in the early 1990s, to craft wines that stood apart at a time when many sought power over precision.

When Julian Huber took over in 2014, aged just 24, expectations were daunting. A decade later, it is clear that he has not merely preserved his father’s legacy but sharpened it. Burgundy remains a reference point, but the wines today speak more clearly of Malterdingen, Bienenberg, Sommerhalde or Schlossberg than of any external model. The stylistic evolution is subtle but decisive: less overt oak, cooler fruit profiles, more reduction, and a striking sense of tension and salinity across both reds and whites.

The estate now harvests around 35 hectares, predominantly in Pinot Noir, rooted in weathered shell limestone soils that echo the Côte d’Or in their ability to confer finesse and longevity. Vineyard work is paramount, yields are modest, and sélection massale is used to refine the finest parcels. Grape variety has largely disappeared from labels: here, place matters more than nomenclature.

In the Glass: A Tasting Snapshot (11 November)

The tasting opened with their traditional method bubbly Blanc de Noirs, creamy yet precise, offering quiet depth rather than overt fruit. The dry rosé, produced since 2020 but pointedly without the word “rosé” on the label, underlined Huber’s philosophy: this is a terroir wine, smoky, reductive, and structured, aged 14 months in barrel with one-third new oak: decidedly not a casual summer pour.

We tasted through wines from the 2023 vintage, which, we learned, was warm and healthy overall, but punctuated by rain just before and during harvest. Larger berries and thinner skins brought mildew concerns, yet the finished wines show admirable clarity and balance rather than dilution.

Among the Pinots, the Malterdingen Ortswein (white label, red capsule) offered a classic, poised expression: fine red fruit, moderate alcohol (13%), and impressive depth for vines averaging 25 years. The step up to Alte Reben (red label) was immediate: older vines (around 45 years), lower yields, greater textural depth, spice, and tannic presence, still framed by Malterdingen’s signature finesse. Oak remains measured at one-third new, notably less than under Bernhard. The estate boasts many great growths, the equivalent of grands crus, designated in German as Grosses Gewächs or GG.

Whether a premier cru or GG level, distinctions sharpened. And I love the graphic design sense of the estate: white labels designate regions, while the red labels designate more premium level wines at village, premier cru or GG grand cru. Same for the whites, only labels for premium level wines are green.

• The Bienenberg GG was beguiling yet reserved, with more acidity, limestone-driven structure, and a flirtatious nose that belied a tightly wound palate demanding cellar time.

• The Köndringen, from younger Pinot Noir vines planted in 2018, was muscular and wind-swept, with spice, firm tannins, and a touch of bitterness.

• The Sommerhalde GG on red clay and limestone near the Black Forest at 350 metres in elevation showed wonderful balance and poise, though extraction here requires a careful hand.

• The Hecklingen, tasted from its very first vintage in 2023, felt frank but still finding its voice: tighter and more astringent than Alte Reben at the same price point.

Then came the standout: the Schlossberg GG. From an extraordinarily steep, wind-exposed slope, yields of just 25 hl/ha and production of roughly 1,500 bottles, this was a wine of rare harmony. It was airy yet substantial, with bright red cherry fruit wrapped in limestone freshness, tannins present but already spherical. A wine that feels both light and profound, and unmistakably complete.

The Whites: Quiet Authority

Chardonnay has been part of the Huber story since the late 1990s, and today it sits firmly among Germany’s benchmarks. The Malterdingen Chardonnay—direct pressed, unfiltered, minimal bâtonnage—was saline, mineral, linear yet generous, already sold out at the time of my visit. The Alte Reben Chardonnay in a gorgeous green label followed with Meursault-like breadth: buttery but precise, long, and quietly powerful (12.5%). Julian’s affection for Burgundy is no secret. His dog is named Perry, after Meursault’s Perrières.

At the top, Bienenberg GG Chardonnay showed greater reduction and acidity, white florals and chamomile, while Schlossberg GG Chardonnay took everything (yet again) a step further: crystalline, herbal, intensely saline, with remarkable length and composure. These are wines built not for immediate charm but for evolution.

A brief aside worth noting: the Breisgau cuvée (50% Pinot Blanc, 50% Pinot Gris), now in its third vintage, displayed what sommeliers aptly call the “Huber nose”—reductive, precise, and disciplined. Pinot Gris is picked early to avoid heaviness, resulting in a taut, gastronomic white of real interest.

A World-Class Estate, Quietly So

This was not my first encounter with the Huber estate. I first visited Wildenstein in 2014, walking the limestone-over-clay slopes with Bernhard Huber himself, just months before his passing. As I wrote at the time, one cannot help but notice the rocky surface and pronounced incline of this extraordinary site—a place that feels closer to Burgundy than to most preconceived notions of German red wine. Bernhard reminded me then that it was Cistercian monks who first planted Pinot Noir here, centuries earlier, laying the foundations for what would become one of Germany’s most revered vineyards. Wildenstein, just two hectares in size, was already widely regarded as producing arguably the finest Pinot Noir in the country, irrespective of price.

Historical records dating back to 1285 attest to Pinot Noir plantings known as “Malterdinger”, named after the village that remains the heart of the estate today. The continuity is striking. The vineyards have been in the Huber family for generations, but it was Bernhard and his wife Barbara, upon taking over in 1987, who began estate bottling under their own name. Until then, grapes and wine had been sold to a local cooperative. That decision—to bottle, to define a style, to look to Burgundy not for imitation but for inspiration—changed the trajectory not only of the estate, but of German Pinot Noir more broadly.

That 2014 visit remains vivid in my memory. Bernhard was generous with his time, walking me through the vineyards and later insisting we sit down for lunch, to taste the wines in their proper setting, as he put it—at table, with food, and without haste. Returning now, a decade later, tasting through the range under Julian’s stewardship, the sense of continuity is unmistakable. The wines have evolved, sharpened, and gained tension, but the foundations laid by Bernhard with patience, humility before terroir, and an unshakeable belief in Pinot Noir, remain firmly intact.

Around 90% of Huber’s production remains in Germany, and it is hard to find! Most wines at the estate were already sold out. Some are exported, particularly to Scandinavia, a market that is growing steadily. Demand far exceeds supply, especially for the Chardonnays and GGs, yet the estate resists hype. What defines Huber today is not ambition for expansion, but an unwavering commitment to style.

As Julian Huber has said, wines here are not meant to impress instantly, but to reveal themselves over time. Tasting across the range in November, that philosophy felt not like dogma, but lived experience. These are wines of discipline, restraint, and inner confidence: Burgundian in method, unmistakably Baden in soul.

Few estates pursue their vision with such consistency. Even fewer succeed so completely.

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